21 Club

21 W 52nd St

Twice a year, numerous restaurants in the city take part in what is known as “Restaurant Week,” offering reduced pre-fixes for lunch and/or dinner. When I saw 21 Club on the list, I booked a reservation immediately.

When Thursday evening came around, I arrived on time and was greeted by a doorman in a fancy suit and white gloves. Sir Fancy Pants and I checked in our coats, walked through the lobby, and were seated near the entrance of the restaurant in what is called the Bar Room. I was unhappy with the proximity of the table to the door, so the host arranged for us to sit deeper into the restaurant at a booth.

The server started us off with a bread basket and allowed me to sample a couple flavors of white wine; I chose the Chardonnay. Sir Fancy Pants ordered the Manhattan cocktail, followed by a glass of Riesling.

For my meal, I ordered the only thing on the Restaurant Week Menu for vegetarians: Red and Green Oak Lettuces salad as my appetizer, Mushroom and Butternut Squash Risotto for my entrée, and the Key Lime Pie for dessert. Sir Fancy Pants ordered the salad with game terrine as an appetizer, the Seared Sea Scallops for his meal, and the Crème Brulee for dessert. The high price tag on our dinner came from 2 pre-fixe meals at $35 each plus drinks and tip.

The only thing worth noting in both our meals was my lime pie. It was delicious and round in shape. I also liked the crème brulee, but Sir Fancy Pants said it was overcooked. Everything else was average and boring; I could easily have cooked the meal myself from scratch. Call me foolish, but when I drop $35 on a meal, I expect something more than what I can make in my kitchen.

I understand it was Restaurant Week, but I could not help feeling cheated and pissed at the limited menu I was presented with. If you are going to offer vegetarians one entrée to choose from, at least make it something worthwhile and unusual. Maybe this is too much to ask.

That said, the service was impeccable; from the wait staff, to the bathroom attendant, everyone was very friendly and attentive. The dining room itself was neat with toys airplanes and trucks covering the ceiling, gifts from former patrons. The horse jockeys lining the entrance are also gifts from former regulars.

21 Club has been around since the days of the Prohibition Era and, from the looks of the crowd, will be around for many years to come. Younger people want to visit because it is a famous New York establishment; older people want to visit because it is a famous New York establishment. Back in the days of the Prohibition, the owners had a wine cellar to next door to stash the goods (i.e. alcohol). One day the feds raided the place while the mayor was in the cellar. In order to get him out, police ticketed and towed their cars to allow the mayor to escape. The website lists its entire history, something worth reading up on.

Despite my pathetic meal, I would give 21 Club another shot for the right occasion. Steer clear during restaurant week, or at least order off the main menu. You will probably spend about the same anyway. Beware the fanciness of the place; guys must wear a jacket and preferably a tie; no sneakers or jeans allowed.

Kudos to the service, the décor, the atmosphere; criticism to the prices, the limited menu, and the poor selection of entrees on the menu.

DAMAGE ~ $156
VERDICT: Go, but not during Restaurant Week