Dawat

210 E 58th Street

Recently, I have taken a love of Indian food. Looking back, it was inevitable. I am vegetarian and love spicy food, although my first few encounters with it did not favor to my fondness. But I kept trying. Or rather, my friends kept trying until they found me the perfect Indian place. I can tell you what that place is not—a Midtown East eatery called Dawat.

A restaurant’s atmosphere can make or break a dining experience. Dawat’s broke mine—twice.

The first time InterSportsWriter and I visited, we were seated next to an overtly loud woman with a noticeable Southern accent and what appeared to be her colleague who listened indifferently as she dominated the conversation. Usually, this is not bothersome except the place was empty.

The second time we visited, we were seated at the exact same table in the nearly empty restaurant, and once again the woman adjacent us dominated the conversation in unusually loud undertones. She did the majority of the talking in between taking numerous phone calls in front of her colleague; the only difference was she lacked the Southern accent of her predecessor. This time we asked to be moved, and fortunately the server granted our request immediately.

Regarding the food, we started with the following:

Onion Fritters (crisp light, chickpea flour batter dipped, onion fritters)

Vegetable Samosa (spicy seasoned potatoes and peas wrapped in light pastry)

We shared the Vegetarian Thali consisting of the following:

Farasvi Bhaji (green beans cooked w/ freshly grated coconut)
Saag Paneer (spinach puree w/ cubes of paneer cheese)
Gobhi Aloo (potatoes, cauliflower & Indian spices)
Sindhi Karhi (vegetarian stew made w/ chickpea flour & vegetables)
Pulao Rice (Indian rice)
Poori Breads (deep-fried puffed bread)
plus a variety of Chutneys & Relishes

I am obsessed with samosas and found theirs amazing. They were just right in terms of crispness on the outside and flavorful on the inside. The fritters, however, were slightly dry and bland in taste.

The entire main dish was wonderful. The Vegetarian Thali appears to be a small meal but is just right for 2 people without leftovers. My favorites included the saag paneer and the gobhi aloo. It’s hard to go wrong with either staple Indian dish, yet I still found myself craving more after they were finished.

The complementary papadum (thin crispy Indian wafers) served with a trio of chutneys at the start of the meal is a great way to wet your taste buds, but beware of where, or rather who, you are seated.

I have yet to visit India, but I imagine Dawat comes pretty close to the real thing. The owner, Madhur Jaffrey, is an Indian actress and food writer. If I worked in the area, perhaps I would order takeaway, but as far as a repeat visit in person, forget it. The outdated décor and older clientele who insist on taking personal calls at the table and practicing public speaking are too stuffy for my liking. The only thing “haute” about Dawat Haute Indian Cuisine was my blood pressure upon leaving.

DAMAGE ~$65
VERDICT: Pass

Trattoria Dell'Arte

900 7th Ave (b/w 56th St & 57th St)

Evenings of attempted Rush tickets to Wicked, a popular musical currently on Broadway, are typically followed by lavish dinners in and around midtown.

The formula for Rush tickets is simple: arrive at a certain time (usually 2 hours before the show), put your name in a basket, and hope you are 1 of 13 individuals called to purchase 2 tickets at a fraction of the cost for the same evening’s performance. Otherwise tickets start at $117 per person.

Last Thursday, chances of scoring discounted tickets were even slimmer as I was late getting off work, and InterSportsWriter was left to fend for the both of us. I arrived just in time to watch the lucky 13 collect their tickets, my evening companion not amongst them. I knew dinner reservations had been arranged should something like this happen (we are going on 0:6). 1 hour later, we were seated at Trattoria Dell'Arte, an Italian eatery located in Midtown West, 2 blocks from Central Park.

We started off with the 3 Vegetable Sampler: Brown Lentil & Corn Salad (plum tomato, thyme & balsamic vinegar); Sautéed Swiss Chard w/ roasted garlic; and Sicilian Eggplant Caponata (sweet & sour eggplant, plum tomato & olives). The appetizer was great (minus the eggplant which I was unable to digest due to a preexisting allergy). Still I sampled it and secretly cursed my stomach because I knew more than 2 bites would leave me curled up in a ball for the rest of the evening.

Next came the vegetarian pizza divided into 4 with each section featuring a different topping: artichoke, wild mushrooms, eggplant and peppers. I left the eggplant to my dining companion, saved the artichokes for later, and inhaled the mushroom and pepper squares. They were amazing.

The crust was thin and crunchy like a pita chip; the oblong-shaped pizza had just the right amount of sauce, cheese, and vegetables. Even for 2 people, it was enormous! It’s no surprise that it boxed up awkwardly and was not quite as amazing the following day. The crust was soggy, and my impatience got in the way of preparing it properly to obtain that unique crispness I experienced during the initial meal.

Dessert topped everything off with myself having the lemonata cheese cake and InterSportsWriter having chocolate ice cream. My selection was fantastic: creamy, dense, and lemony. My companion, however, was dissatisfied with his choice and left over half of it behind.

Besides their signature pizza and one expansive antipasto bar, the most obvious thing worth nothing about the midtown eatery is the décor. The walls are painted in soft pastels and covered in enormous sculptures of the—umm—body. From noses to breasts to butts, Trattoria Dell’Arte has it all. The unique decorations provide a nice topic of discussion should conversation lag.

The bottom line: go for the pizza, gawk at the décor, and avoid the chocolate.

DAMAGE ~$100+
VERDICT: Go

Gramercy Tavern

2 E 20th Street (b/w Broadway & Park Ave S)

Birthdays come but once a year (still far too frequent in my opinion). This year, as I prepared to enter my quarter life crisis, InterSportsWriter did his best to help me forget my woes of growing older with a surprise dinner at Gramercy Tavern. What a dinner it was!

We both ordered the Vegetarian Tasting Menu consisting of the following:

Radish & Kohlrabi Salad
Country Egg

Sugar Snap Peas & Cucumber

Barley Risotto
Baby Carrots, Shiitake & Spiced Almonds

Warm Salad of Vegetables & Black Lentils

Spinach Fettuccine
Green Garlic & Mushrooms

Petit Fours

It took us a while to settle on a wine. The waiter suggested a Riesling Austrian called Stift Göttweig, a compromise to my dry, crisp preference and InterSportsWriter’s sweet tooth. One sip and I could not have been more pleased with the outcome.

As for the dishes (starting with my least favorite), the amuse bouche served at the start was odd in flavor and unimpressive. Everything else, however, was spectacular. From the initial radish salad to the barley risotto, the food was a feast for my eyes and mouth. The final entree of spinach fettuccine served with whole garlic cloves tasted especially unique yet not overpowering as one might expect with garlic.

We also ordered a plate of five cheeses. Despite the fact I no longer recall our various selections months later as I write this, I do recall the taste—perfection. Murray Greenberg, former owner of the infamous Murray’s Cheese in West Village, would be hard pressed to find a more delicious serving of coagulated milk (besides his own of course).

The plates were perfectly proportioned allowing for fullness without the feeling of being stuffed. The waiter was very accompanying and patient, especially as we discussed the pros and cons of the meal using him as a mediator.

For dessert, InterSportsWriter had the peanut butter-wafer-chocolate-toffee selection; I had the rhubarb shortcake. Both were amazing, but not near as good as the main courses.

Friends and colleagues have always raved about the upscale eatery located off E 20th between Broadway and Park. Following my quarter life crisis birthday dinner, I understand why. I now join the countless patrons who place Gramercy Tavern amongst their favorite eateries in New York City.

With its innovative menu, impressive interior, superb service, and amazing food, Gramercy Tavern is a place I plan to frequent (and recommend) often. It’s perfect for special occasions, get-togethers, Monday nights, Tuesday evenings, Wednesday aftern—well, you get the idea.

P.S. Did I mention there are complimentary chocolates at the end of the meal? See Petit Fours.

DAMAGE ~ $300+
VERDICT: GO NOW!

Ouest

2315 Broadway (b/w 83rd St & 84th St)

Ouest (pronounced West) on the Upper West Side is a 2 story French eatery catering to those who appreciate the finer things in life—namely great extra virgin olive oil and more extra virgin olive oil.

A number of various cuisines were discussed for dinner one Saturday evening, including Italian (proposed by InterSportsWriter) and Mexican (proposed by myself). Ouest was chosen due to its relative proximity (less than 10 blocks away) and a particular food item to be discussed shortly. Immediately after being seated, we were given a bread basket served with a special almond paste mixed with olive oil.

I ordered the Earl Grey Martini to drink, which is essentially grey tea infused with gin. I’m a huge tea person. With gin being my liquor of choice, I thought my drink amazing. It had a refreshingly light taste and crisp feel.

As a starter, my dining companion raved about the Truffled Omelet Soufflé with Mousseline Sauce. We ordered 2.

For the main course, we were crippled in vegetarian entrée choices (there were none). Thus, we opted for dinner size portions of the following appetizers:

Goat Cheese Ravioli w/ Tomato, Pancetta and Basil

Chickpea Pancakes w/ Green Beans

The key ingredient at Ouest is extra virgin olive oil; I nearly asked for a glass of it. From the initial almond paste served with the bread basket to the omelet soufflé, my taste buds remained on cloud 9 throughout the evening.

The omelet was light, fluffy, and fantastic. It falls into the top 3 things I have tried this year and might just be one of the best things I’ve had in my entire life. Like certain bars that have a 2 drink minimum, I would suggest Ouest have a 1 plate minimum and that plate be the omelet soufflé. It was this particular dish InterSportsWriter used as leverage to convince me of Ouest in the first place.

The goat cheese ravioli and the chickpea pancakes were quite good, but as stated before, the soufflé and the bread basket almond paste trumped the meal.

My only complaint was the utter disregard for vegetarians, at least according to the dinner menu entrée list.


DAMAGE ~ $120
VERDICT: GO NOW!

Mole

205 Allen St

Craving Mexican food one Sunday night, a friend suggested dinner at Vamos!, a Mexican eatery in Stuyvesant Town. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived at the late afternoon/early evening hour of 10p.m., the restaurant had closed; my cravings had not. So I interjected with a tiny eatery I spotted off the Lower East Side called Mole.

As soon as we arrived, we started off with tableside guacamole and “Crepas con Huitlacoche,” 2 homemade crepes with black corn mushroom in creamy poblano sauce.

For the main course, I ordered the “Chiles Rellenos,” 2 fire roasted poblano peppers stuffed with queso fresco and served in fire roasted tomato sauce.

I blocked out what my dining companion had because it contained meat.

The mushroom crepes appetizer was by far the tastiest plate. I was impressed, but then again, how often does an appetizer trump the main course? Is that even allowed? The guacamole dip was not bad, although mine is better.

I found the main dish slightly overkill—my peppers were literally swimming in tomato sauce. Maybe I ordered soup. It’s been a few weeks since I visited.

We also had a side of nopales asadas, or grilled cactus, which turned out to be the most disappointing item of the evening; dry and bland. We barely managed a couple bites between us, but only out of obligation to our wallets rather than our tongues.

What I remember most about the evening was biting into my poblano peppers to find a toothpick. The server explained the toothpick was inserted to hold the peppers in place during the preparation of the dish. Unfortunately, it was too late; my taste buds felt jaded and my stomach remained uneasy throughout the remainder of the meal.

Looking back, I’ve had dishes where toothpicks are added to hold everything together, but this particular one caught me off guard. I apologized to the server for assuming the worst, but it was still hard to convince myself the toothpick was intentional and necessary.

Although the service was good, I can’t say I’ll be back. The menu was not impressive enough to warrant a return; and the complimentary salsa was weak, somewhat of a deal breaker in the land of Mexican restaurants.


DAMAGE ~$80 (CASH ONLY)
VERDICT: Go

Pukk

71 1st Ave (b/w 4th St & 5th St)

Note: When looking for a cheap reasonable place to dine, avoid Nolita.

A friend and I wandered aimlessly for 2 hours around the area looking for something good yet reasonably priced. Along the way, we stopped for cupcakes and cheesecake but soon found ourselves craving something more substantial.

She was visiting from out of town, so I knew it was up to me to find something. I suggested heading east and bingo—staring at us from neon green lighting was Pukk, a vegetarian Thai eatery off 1st Avenue.

The place was slightly more than half full on a late Friday evening, so we had no trouble getting a table.

We started with an appetizer called Spinach Toast, crispy fritters with spinach and lime sweet chili. The fritters were delish and the lime sweet chili was a nice compliment to the spinach.

The plethora of mock meats on the menu had my dining companion fooled. She didn’t realize Pukk was completely vegetarian until placing her order, Pad Thai w/ chicken. At this point, I informed her everything was soy based. Thankfully, she is an experimental eater, so I knew she would appreciate the change (at least that’s what I told myself before stepping through the door).

Meanwhile, I ordered the Massaman Curry w/ vegetarian duck (curry w/ sweet potato, onion, and peanut).

I really loved my dish; the curry could have been a tad spicier but nothing a little hot sauce didn’t fix. My companion enjoyed hers as well, but pad thai is pad thai. It’s hard to go wrong with such a staple dish unless you really try.

As pleased as I was with the meal, I was even more pleased with the bill. Under $20 (before tip) for what we ordered seemed like a crime. I have not had a full meal for 2 people this cheaply since The Ed Sullivan Show was the thing to do on Sunday night.

Pukk is the perfect place for those looking to eat a decent meal without having to take out a small loan to do so. The cocktail menu is quite impressive, and there are several desserts I look forward to on a return visit, probably with a vegetarian friend or another unsuspecting omnivore…


DAMAGE ~$23
VERDICT: Go

Aureole

34 E 61st St

Situated between Madison Avenue and Park Avenue on the Upper East Side was a two story restaurant from the Charlie Palmer Group called Aureole. I use past tense because as I type these words, Executive Chef Christopher Lee is preparing the last plates for his final evening at 34 E 61st Street’s Aureole; the restaurant closes tonight. It is this closing that prompted InterSportsWriter to make reservations for 2 at one of his favorite dining halls in the city.

The Charlie Palmer Group is a collection of restaurants, wine shops and boutique hotels across the country under the direction of master chef and entrepreneur Charlie Palmer. Palmer is famous for his Progressive American cooking, or the art of combining distinct flavors and unusual concoctions.

Evidence of Palmer’s unique creations can be found in the following 9 course Vegetarian Pre-Fixe tasting menu served during our visit:

(no pic)

Wild Asparagus w/ Asian Flavors

Summer Squashes feat. Burrata Cheese, Honey Mustard & Baby Greens in a Lavender Rosemary Dressing

Artichoke Ravioli feat. Tomato, Capers & Black Olive in a White Wine Butter Sauce

Green Asparagus feat. Watercress & Frisee in a Morel Mushroom Cream

Forbidden Rice feat. Ramps, Rhubarb, Fiddle Head Ferns & Pistachio Nuts

Spring Vegetable Tasting feat. Fava Beans, English Peas, Apricot Chutney & Chanterelle Mushrooms

Coconut Tapioca w/ Cherry Compote

Vanilla Buttermilk Panna Cotta feat. Strawberry Rhubarb Sorbet, Toasted Cornmeal Cake & Lavender Meringue

Warm Chocolate Banana Tartlet w/ Salted Caramel Ice Cream & Macadamia Croquant

After the tasting menu, I understood why my dining companion felt so strongly the establishment; Aureole is dining at its finest. The Vanilla Buttermilk Panna Cotta might be the single best thing to grace my lips in 2009, which is saying something because I have tried some pretty spectacular dishes this year.

Following the Panna Cotta, the Spring Vegetable Tasting and the Artichoke Ravioli were my next 2 favorite dishes. I didn't care so much for the white foam served with the Warm Chocolate Banana Tartlet; it looked and tasted like soap. In addition, the Rhubarb served with the Forbidden Rice was not so pleasing, but everything else was perfection.

The meal was bittersweet in a sense because I knew it would be the first and last time I ever visited the famous Upper East Side establishment. However, the good news is they are relocating to the Bank of America Tower at One Bryant Park.


DAMAGE ~$135 (pp, 7 course tasting menu)
VERDICT: GO NOW! (once their new location opens)

Zenkichi

77 N. 6th St, B'lyn

It’s no secret that when dining out, I do extensive research on the restaurant and the menu. Before even walking in the door, I know exactly what I am going to order, what it will taste like, and how much it will cost.

As a result, InterSportsWriter has gotten into the habit of denying me my preview glory by refusing to disclose any details regarding the venue and cuisine of our outings.

Our latest excursion had me and CanseoTaris, a friend visiting from Texas, on the L train to Williamsburg. We exited the Bedford Avenue stop, where InterSportsWriter joined us. We were led to the end of the block at what appeared to be a shack. No sign, no hoards of people hanging about, just a wooden shack. Whatever was behind that wall better be good.

Arriving just in time for our dinner reservation at Zenkichi, a modern Japanese Brasserie, we followed the hostess through a maze of bamboo sticks to the second story and were seated at a semi-private dimly lit booth.

All three of us opted for the vegetarian six-course tasting menu, with CanseoTaris not wanting to feel like the odd one out in the presence of vegetarians.

The following is what graced my lips that evening in order:

Silken Tofu w/ Tomatoes

Spring Vegetable Tempura w/ Shiitake Mushrooms & Broccoli Rabe

Grilled Eggplant

Oven Roasted Japanese Mushrooms

Agedashi Goma Tofu w/ Scallops in light broth

Each of us ordered different desserts and rotated them around the table:

Chocolate Fondant w/ Raspberry Sauce

Black Sesame Ice Cream

Grapefruit Agar Gelee

Let me start by saying what stood out amongst the dishes: the Spring Vegetable Tempura and the Oven Roasted Mushrooms. Both were made to perfection and tasted superb.

What did not stand out was the eggplant (I am not a big fan in general), and the initial plate of silken tofu was a bit too silken for me (see texture of pudding). Also, the goma tofu in light broth was too watery for my liking.

As far as the desserts were concerned, the fondant was amazing; the ice cream was good; and the grapefruit gelee was gross (DISCLAIMER: I don't like grapefruit). InterSportsWriter, however, enjoyed it.

I was wrong about the modern Japanese Brassiere being good. What lay beyond that wooden wall was fantastic! For CaseoTaris, Zenkichi happened to be her first dinner in New York City. Needless to say, she was thoroughly impressed. I loved the layout of the space, despite the dim lighting and getting lost in the maze of bamboo sticks several times on my way back from the bathroom.

Meals are as much about the food as they are about the experience; this was one to remember. A Japanese eatery with a vegetarian tasting menu is practically unheard of. I’m not sure if I will be back, but I will definitely recommend this place to everyone I know. Be forewarned, they only do dinner Wednesday thru Sunday.

DAMAGE ~$48/pp tasting menu
VERDICT: Go